Sinai’s northern and southern regions contrast greatly in character. Whereas the south is mountainous and fringed with beaches, the north is a great plateau that slopes downward toward the Mediterranean shore, where pale dunes rise from coastal salt marshes. There are few settlements, although Al-Arish is a popular resort with Egyptians and has ambitions to attract some of the foreign vacation trade.

Highlight of the journey is crossing the Suez Canal at Qantara. Traffic is driven onto a busy ferry for the brief 10-minute sail. Other than the passenger ferries at Port Said, this is about the only opportunity there is to get on the canal. Event this may disappear following the construction of a new suspension bridge.

About 30 kilometres east, just before the small settlement of Farma, is a signposted turning for Pelusium. This was the fortress town that guarded Egypt’s eastern frontier for centuries. It has a colourful history. The Persian army of Cambyses is said to have captured the garrison here without a fight by driving cats before them.