Although its neighbors Zimbabwe, Angola, and the Democratic Republic of Congo are struggling, Zambia has reasons to celebrate: its 73 population groups are coexisting peacefully, its wildlife is thriving and its economy is on the rise.

Landlocked Zambia is shaped like a contorted figureeight, and consists of rolling plains, winding rivers and tropical lakes. Although the county has 19 national parks and game management areas decades of poaching, mismanagement and bush clearing have taken their toll on the country’s wildlife. Since the 1990s, however, Zambia has actively rehabilitated its parks with the help on international donors, and wildlife populations are lowly returning to their previous levels.

South Luangwa National Park is the birthplace of the walking safari, conceived by conservationist Norman Carr. It is easy to miss small things from a vehicle, but everything’s visible on foot. Tracks, dropping, nests, scrapes and scent marks provide information about wildlife and may even help locate it. However, lion encounters are a real possibility, so it is advisable to stay in single file behind the scout.