A wander around this magical ruined Byzantine city is sheer delight. Its setting is spectacular, with a hill rising from a plain at the edge of the Taygetos Mountains, which thrust down into the Mania. Atmospheric ruins sprawl over the top and slopes of the hill, with enough remaining to give a good idea of what it must have been life for the 42,000 people who lived here in the fifteenth century.

There are two entrances to the site. Approaching from Sparta, you first come to the lower entrance. The second entrance is t the top of the hill, and both have parking.  There is no particular advantage to either of them, although if you don’t enjoy a lot of climbing you might wish to explore the lower slopes fist, before driving up to the top and looking around there.