Nafplio, 63 kilometres southeast of Corinth on the Argolic Gulf, was the first capital of independent Greece and it is a town that still holds a special place in the hearts of many Greeks. The site has been occupied since Neolithic times, and became the major port of the Argolis in Mycenaean times – when the Akronafplia was first fortified.

There are several reasons for visiting Nafplion, not least the town’s location by the water with views across a gulf of the mountains of the eastern Peloponnese. The narrow streets and pristine whitewashed houses of the old town are reminiscent of a Greek island, and it has excellent restaurants.

Nestled on the northern slopes of the ancient Akronafplia fortress, the old town is a maze of narrow streets lined with old Venetian and Ottoman buildings and gracious neoclassical mansions. Bursts of brilliant red bougainvillea blossom fill the streets in spring and early summer, making Nafplio one of the Peloponnese’s most romantic destinations.

Nafplion’s appeal is enhanced by two high fortresses dominating the low buildings of the town. You can reach the Palamidi Fortress either by climbing up 999 steps, which is not for the fainthearted or by an easier but longer route by road.

The Its Kale Fortress is slightly less dramatic. This was the site of Nafplion’s original acropolis, and several castles have stood here over the centuries.

Not surprisingly, it is a favourite weekend destination for young Athenian couples. It is also a great base for exploring the ancient sites of Epidavros, Mycenae and Tiryns.