Sicily’s second largest city, Catania lacks the sights commensurate with a place of its size. Natural disasters are partly to blame for its unappealing appearance, but so are decades of bureaucratic incompetence. Economically it is doing relatively well, but most of the city’s businesses and more affluent residents have relocate to the suburbs, with the result that the inner city is in a poor state.

If you do find yourself here, make sure it is not in summer, for this is one of Italy’s hottest cities, with temperatures often in excess of 40 C. devote your time to the cathedral, the masterpiece of Giovanni Battista Vaccarini, who designed much of Catania’s baroque centre.

Also walk down Via Crociferi, the city’s best baroque street, and Via Etnea, Catania’s main thoroughfare. For quiet and shade, visit Villa Bellini Park just north of the centre off Via Santo Euplio and Via Pacini. Catania also offers many theatres, concerts, and festivals.