Pantelleria is the largest an most westerly of Sicily’s offshore islands, a fascinating outpost with a rich history, dramatic coastline, fertile volcanic interior, and the sort of isolated and bohemian charm that has begun to attract such high-profile visitors as Sting, Madonna, and Giorgio Armani.

Pantelleria owes its prosperity to its dark, volcanic soils. These attracted Neolithic visitors, who built the eighteenth century BC rock tombs, or sesi, that are unique to the island. It also benefited from its position, just 84 kilometres from Tunisia, and tempting African traders such as the Phoenicians, who called it the Place of Birds.

The island’s loveliest settlement is Gadir on the northeast coast, connected by a scenic inland road to Trocino to the south. Nearby Kamma and ghost village of Mueggen are also captivating. Other good inland destinations are a hot-water lake, and two pretty, verdant valleys for hiking.