Peniche is a curiosity. This former island, it joined the mainland in the sixteenth century, when silt formed an isthmus. Modern high-rises conceal an attractive harbour complete with old bulwarks, walls, and a star-shaped sixteenth century fortress, formerly a political prison and now the Museu Municipal.

Ethnographic exhibits cover fishing, ship building, and local bobbin lacework. In contrast, the old prison cells and torture rooms make rather gruesome displays. The town’s antifascist resistance during the Salazar era is also given space.

The fortress faces the large harbour that has given Peniche its status in Portugal’s fishing and canning industry; fish conserving goes back to Roman times. Fish restaurants clustered around the harbour and fort area specialize in delicious fish stew, as well as barbecued sardines and steamed lobster. There are beautiful sandy beaches nearby, especially along the Baleal isthmus, and one in particular stands out: Cabo Carvoeiro.