The island capital has a glorious setting, sprawling across a wide amphitheatre of mountains and hillsides with the glittering, boat-studded bay below. Often shrouded in clouds, the hills protect the city from the north-easterly winds, making it the warmest location on the island.

Home to around one third of Madeira’s inhabitants, Funchal was named for the wild fennel that the early settlers found here. Today it is sometimes dubbed little Lisbon for its elegant architecture, lively cafes, and smart shops. Luxuriant vegetation perfumes its winding streets. The old town fronts the harbour and marina, while the modern extension lies due west along the seafront.

Start your visit at the main square, the Praca do Municipio. Several important buildings ring its distinctively patterned pavement of black and white basalt stones.  Note the Camara Municipal, a gracious eighteenth century mansion originally built for the count of Carvalhal, and, in the south side of the square, the former bishop’s palace, which has a lovely arcaded gallery.