Lake Van, virtually an inland sea of almost 4000 square kilometers, at an elevation of 1750m, is one of the most unusual features of eastern Turkey. Surrounded on all sides by a narrow but fertile plain, and then mountains, the lake –nearly 200m deep in spot- occupies what was once a lowland basin that was later dammed by lava flowing from Nemrut Mountain. Owing to rapid evaporation in this desert climate, the lake water is highly alkaline, rendering it slightly soapy and slimy to the touch, so local people can sometimes be seen washing clothes in it.

Lately, though, high levels of pollution, particularly around Van, have meant that neither this nor any other lake-related activities are recommended close to the major towns. As a result the shore remains largely unexploited, with a notable scarcity of boathire or watersports facilities. There is, however, a stretch of rocky beach at Edremit, a few kilometers south of Van, from where it’s possible to swim, and it’s probably safe enough to take a dip along the more sparsely populated stretches of shoreline. Even non-swimmers will float –the water’s specific gravity is greater than the sea- but for the same reason, any open cuts or abrasions will sting terrifically upon immersion.

Aside from a few waterbirds like pelicans, gulls and cormorants that are able to tolerate lake water equivalent to a three-percent soda solution, the only other Van animal life worth noting is the famous Van cat, a fluffy white beast endowed naturally with one blue and one gold eye, and an affectionate disposition. The pure strain is supposedly disappearing from careless interbreeding with ordinary cats, but a few speciments are still kept at local hotels and carpet shops as tourist bait.