Eight kilometres past the viewpoint the highway descends slightly and stats across the high, wavy hills of the Eagle Plains. Once again above tree line, travellers get a top-of-the-world sensation as they curve along to the Eagle Plains Hotel, at kilometre 369 the midpoint of the drive. You can get a room, park a trailer, pitch a tent, eat in the restaurant, repair your tires, or launder your clothes. But everyone should fill up with gas at this oasis.

At kilometre 405.5, you arrive at latitude 66, 33’: the Arctic Circle. From here north the sun never sets at the summer solstice and never rises at the winter solstice. One of several interpretive signs explains that, contrary to what many people think, the Arctic Circle does not divide Arctic tundra from boreal forest. Mandy factors influence the transition from forest to tundra. The dividing line cuts raggedly across Canada, dipping as far south as Manitoba and rising north almost to the Arctic Ocean.

From the Arctic Circle the road proceeds across the tundra on a raised berm. Within a few miles the highway narrows and sprouts more ruts and rocks, so you will want to slow down. You would probably have slowed down anyway to watch a camouflaged flock of whimbrels eating their way across the tundra or a long-tailed jaeger raiding another bird’s nest.