Alajuela, a small regional town founded in 1676, lies at the base of Volcan Poas a mile north of the Juan Santamaria International airport and 21 km northwest of San Jose. Although hardly a calling card in its own right, it is a splendid base for exploring Poas and there are several key sites tucked amid the waves of coffee that wash against the town of all sides.

Alajuela, is colloquially called the “City of the Mangoes” for the trees that shade Parque Central, officially the Plaza de General Tomas Guardia but known by local wags as Park of the Dead Doves for the old men who gather to gossip and watch the pretty girls pass by.

The town bustles on Saturday, when you should visit the compact Mercado Central, where all manner of produce is sold within the tight, shaded warren.