Although Cartago, the nation’s erstwhile capital and today its second largest city, offers meagre attractions, a fistful of top-class sites lie nearby, the surrounding countryside is enrichingly scenic, and the city is a starting point for stupendous dries up Volcan Irazu, through the Orosi Valley, and along the mountain ridge that leads south to Cerro de la Muerte.

Cartago, Costa Rica’s oldest settlement was founded in 1563 by conquistador Juan Vasquez de Coronado and remained the nation’s capital until 1823, when it lost the battle of Ochomongo to San Jose. It is hardly a beautiful city and long ago ceased to wear its history on its sleeves. Most of the colonial edifices have literally fallen victims to earthquakes, and nearby Volcan Irazu frequently spews ash on the city.