Puerto Viejo, the Caribbean coast’s surfing capital, emits a centripetal pull on counterculture vacationers; it is Costa Rica’s mecca of the offbeat. The infamous Salsa Brave wave, legendary in surfing lore, pumps ashore in front of restaurants that bear an international imprimatur.

The Native American heritage is strong; guided trips into adjacent indigenous reserves are a popular activity for visitors. Snorkelling and diving, plus dolphin-viewing excursions are offered by River Runner Divers, as are horseback trips at Don Antonio’s Stables, one mile south of the village.

Finca la Isla Botanical Garden spans 5 hectares of rain forest and expansive gardens where exotic fruits, ornamental plants, and spices are grown. A self-guided booklet explains the trails into the forest, where monkeys, sloths, and snakes abound.