More than just an awesome archaeological site, Palenque has one of the region’s last remaining patches of evergreen tropical forest. Epiphyte-draped trees surround graceful pyramids topped with delicate temples, glowing the colour of rich cream in the tropical sun. Small rives criss-cross the site, and a series of cascades fills the Queen’s Bath, where today’s plebeian visitors may now bathe. Trails through unexcavated portions of the 1,780 hectare reserve lead to parties of squawking parrots and shrieking howler monkeys, where silent Jesus Christ lizards and snakes slink under damp fallen leaves.

Its intense wild setting as well as its harmonious, graceful architecture makes Palenque magic. Corbelled vaults permit larger doorways and give the buildings a light, refined appearance enhanced by delicate roof combs, mansard roofs, and T-shaped windows evocative of the wind god. Ik. Of all the Maya sites, it is among the most elegant, mysterious, and accessible.