The silver and gold mines in Pachuca and the surrounding hills, worked since before the Spanish Conquest, have played out and been resuscitated or relocated several times. Yet mining still contributes significantly to the economy, augmented by the manufacture of textiles, cement, and other products. Streets and alleys wind up and down the hilly city, meeting at small plazas that are fronted by contemporary and neoclassic buildings. Like a microcosm of Mexico’s heartland, tiny Hidalgo State is a patchwork of pulque haciendas, arid plains, working and depleted mines, and sixteenth century monasteries.

The old city of Pachuca radiates from the rather severe Plaza de la Independencia, surrounded by an uninspired mix of twentieth century buildings. Dominating the square is the neoclassic Reloj Monumental, an imposing clock tower with an eight-bell carillon. Built just prior to the Revolution, its marble statues represent Liberty, the Constitution, Reform, and Independence.