This 61 square kilometre island is the largest and by far the most populated of Bocas’ isles, with the majority of hotels, restaurants, and services. Though its prime appeal is the mellow charm of the Bocas Town lifestyle, the island has patches of primary forest to explore, plus spectacular beaches seemingly tailored for surfing and for turtle-viewing by night. The entire place is easy to explore by bicycle, albeit along rough dirt roads.

Bocas Town, the archipelago’s commercial hub, was founded in 1826 and was a base for British loggers and for harvesting sea turtles. Though the past few years have witnessed an explosion in tourism and foreign investment, this cozy and close-knit community still appeals mostly to offbeat tropical tramps and independent-minded travellers whose idea of a good time is lazing in a hammock until sundown, then chilling over reggae riffs and a cool beer in funky waterfront bars.

Bocas Town’s beach, Playa el Istmito, a 10-minute walk north from the park along Avenida G, is the setting for the annual four-day Reria del Mar in September, when the entire community grooves to reggae. The beach has a volleyball court and a party atmosphere, although there are more scenic beaches farther out.