The 16 major islands and many smaller ones of the Kodiak Island archipelago sprawl across the Gulf of Alaska for over 200 kilometres. It is the second largest island in the States. Though this wild and windswept island realm is most famous for its numerous hulking brown bears, ironically it is also the most accessible and developed part of south-western Alaska.

The commercial fishing centre of Kodiak, population 6,200, is by far the largest city in the archipelago; travellers can get here via jet flights or the state ferry. The Star of Kodiak, the last Liberty Ship built during World War II, sits moored near the visitor centre.

Kodiak’s extensive Russian past is on display at the Baranov Museum, just a little down from the Liberty Ship. The oldest Russian building in the United States, it was built in 1808 by the Russian-American Company to store sea otter pelts. Inside is a wealth of artefacts from the Russian era, including some dazzling Easter eggs.