To sail into Tracy Arm, you’ll have to cross a bar left behind by the glacier that once filled this valley. Known as a terminal moraine, the underwater ridge of rocky debris marks the glacier’s farthest advance down the fjord.

Tour boats out of Juneau make daily trips to Tracy Arm. Be sure you are out on deck as your captain navigates the 22-mile-long fjord toward two beautiful tidewater glaciers, Sawyer and South Sawyer. All your senses come into play as you listen to the popping noise the ice makes, watch for harbour seals and their pups riding the bergs, and scan the cliffs for mountain goats.

These are fairly good waters for kayaking. Watch the tides, however, and keep a safe distance from potentially rolling icebergs and calving glaciers. You will find more camping spots in neighbouring Endicott Arm and a more peaceful wilderness experience.